SEATTLE (AP) – Jim Whittaker, the renowned mountaineer and the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has passed away at the age of 97. Whittaker's family confirmed that he died on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.
Born in Seattle, Whittaker began his climbing career in the 1940s with his twin brother, Lou Whittaker, participating in the Boy Scouts. The duo achieved a significant milestone when, at the age of 16, they summited Mount Olympus, the highest peak in the Olympic Mountains, which is 7,965 feet (2,428 meters) tall. This climb occurred during the conclusion of World War II, which brought celebrations in the town of Port Angeles as they returned home.
Whittaker's ascent of Mount Everest in 1963, alongside Nawang Gombu, came a decade after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's historic climb. This landmark achievement captured significant media attention and positioned Whittaker as a celebrity in the climbing community, catalyzing an increased interest in mountaineering within the United States. His climb also aligned with his early career at REI, where he had worked since 1955, initially as a sales representative, and later becoming the retailer's president and CEO from 1971 to 1979.
Under Whittaker's leadership, REI expanded its membership from nearly 250,000 to over 900,000, greatly enhancing the company's prominence. The co-op attributed conservation successes, such as the establishment of North Cascades National Park and other protected lands in Washington and California, to his advocacy and congressional testimonies for outdoor preservation. Whittaker's influence marked a significant shift towards outdoor advocacy long before it became commonplace.
Whittaker's legacy was also colored by his close friendship with the Kennedy family, particularly with Robert Kennedy. He climbed a 14,000-foot (4,267 meters) peak in Canada with Robert Kennedy, which was subsequently named Mount Kennedy in honor of the slain presidential candidate. Whittaker was with Kennedy during his final moments and was deeply affected by his assassination in 1968.
As a mountaineer, Whittaker's resume was impressive, having led many climbs, including the Mount Everest International Peace Climb in 1990, which united climbers from the U.S., the Soviet Union, and China. His belief in the power of shared outdoor experiences to foster global cooperation was a recurring theme in his philosophy. Whittaker expressed pride in an expedition from 1981, leading ten climbers with disabilities to the summit of Mount Rainier, stating, “that was Mount Everest” for them.
Despite scaling Mount Rainier over 100 times, Whittaker remained aware of the unpredictability of nature, emphasizing the importance of respecting the outdoors. His reflections on climbing illustrated a profound appreciation for life, as he once said, “When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.” His legacy of optimism and environmental stewardship continues to resonate. Former Washington Governor Jay Inslee lauded Whittaker's impact, describing his legacy as significant and lasting.
Whittaker is survived by his wife Dianne Roberts, three sons, Bob, Joss, and Leif Whittaker, as well as three grandchildren and one great-grandchild. His contributions to mountaineering, conservation, and his advocacy for unity through shared challenges in nature will be remembered long after his passing.
