ISLAMABAD (AP) — The remains of renowned British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja and three other climbers have been discovered on Broad Peak, one of the world's highest mountains, following a tragic avalanche that swept away a 10-member international expedition. This somber announcement was made by officials on Sunday.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan identified the recovered climbers as Nirmal Purja, Wang Zhong, Nima Sherpa, and Kili Pemba Sherpa. The club expressed their gratitude towards military and civilian rescuers, as well as volunteers who were involved in the ongoing recovery efforts.
On Friday, rescuers had located four additional bodies, but they were only able to bring down three of them due to severe weather that grounded search-and-rescue helicopters. The climbers recovered included Omani Nathira Ahmed, American Mallory Geis, and Nepalese Bahadur Gurung.
Military-supported rescue teams reignited the search on Sunday for the two remaining climbers, while efforts continued to recover the bodies of Purja and the three others found earlier. Local authorities reported that the conditions on the mountain remain challenging.
Purja’s expedition company expressed deep sorrow over the loss, stating that the world has lost one of the true greats in the mountaineering community. They described him as “a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than we often imagine.”
Irfan Arshad Khan, President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, commented on the tragedy, labeling it “an immeasurable loss to the global mountaineering fraternity.” He also paid tribute to the military and civilian rescuers and Sherpas who participated in the search mission.
Nirmal Purja, a former British Army soldier born in Nepal and widely recognized as Nims Dai, had an illustrious climbing career. Notably, he climbed the world's 14 highest peaks in a record-breaking 189 days in 2019, a feat that gained international attention and was featured in the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.” It is noteworthy that his record was surpassed in 2023.
A statement released by Mallory Geis's family expressed their grief, saying, “Mallory was a bright light who was loved deeply by her family and friends. She will be profoundly missed.” Geis was among the climbers whose body was recovered following the avalanche.
The expedition also included Pakistani guide Sohail Sakhi, who was reported to be missing as of Sunday. This expedition was expected to be Sakhi's final venture. He was associated with Moving Mountains, a Pakistan-based adventure travel company, and was not only a guide but also a geographer and high-altitude photographer who had successfully climbed many of the world’s major peaks.
Accidents during climbing expeditions are unfortunately common in northern Pakistan, where climbers face risks from avalanches, falling ice and rocks, extreme altitude, and rapidly changing weather conditions. These hazards contribute to the inherent dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, emphasizing the need for caution in such treacherous environments.
Riaz Khan reported from Peshawar, Pakistan.
Munir Ahmed and Riaz Khan, The Associated Press.




